Paris’s Most Illustrious Dead: Luc’s Cemetery Tour – Part 2

Montmartre, Montparnasse & Charonne

Montmartre

View of Montmartre Cemetery, Paris

Miles smaller than Père Lachaise or Montparnasse, Montmartre Cemetery is the perfect “starter cemetery.”

Located near Pigalle and Place de Clichy, it opened in 1825 on the site of a former gypsum quarry which was used as a mass grave during the French Revolution.

Famous residents

Notable residents include leading names from French cinema such as actress Jeanne Moreau and new wave director François Truffaut. Also interred here are Russian dancer and choreographer Vaslav Nijinsky and 19th-century Naturalist novelist Émile Zola. Zola was originally buried here but his remains were subsequently moved to the Panthéon; the family grave, however, is still in Montmartre.

Montmartre Cemetery with metro

Montparnasse

Montparnasse Cemetery
Famous residents
Plaque on Simone de Beauvoir's house,  rue Victor Schoelcher, Paris
Tomb of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, Montparnasse Cemetery
Tombstone, Montparnasse Cemetery, Paris

Other eminent inmates include iconic singer-songwriter Serge Gainsbourg; the Irish-French playwright and poet Samuel Beckett; master of the short story Guy de Maupassant and Charles Baudelaire: poet, absinthe aficionado and French translator of Edgar Allen Poe’s work.
Oddities: among the more whimsical graves is this one with a sculpture of a giant pair of hands (left).

Guy de Maupassant's grave, Montparnasse Cemetery

Recommended reading
  • Simone de Beauvoir, L’Invitée (She Came to Stay). Largely autobiographical tale of a ménage-à-trois that turns sour.  
  • Jean-Paul Sartre, Huis Clos (No Exit). Set in hell, this harrowing play contains the classic line “Hell is other people.”
  • Guy de Maupassant, Contes du Jour et de la Nuit (Tales of Day and Night). It’s hard to pick one short story collection. This one features treasures such as La Parure (The Necklace) and Une Vendetta.

Charonne

Located in Place Saint-Blaise in the 20th arrondissement, not far from Père Lachaise, this little-known cemetery is dwarfed by Paris’s Big Three cemeteries and devoid of famous graves, but nevertheless worth a visit. For one thing, unlike in other countries where graveyards are typically behind or around churches, in France this has ceased to be the case since the Middle Ages: this is therefore an exception, being one of only two churches in Paris still with its own graveyard.
The second point of interest is the church itself, Saint-Germain de Charonne (right and below in the gallery). Originally built in the 12th century with later additions in the 15th and 18th centuries, the style ranges from Romanesque to Classical.

Shadow of a cross on a grave in Charonne Cemetery, Paris
Interior of the church of Saint-Germain de Charonne, Paris

The cemetery itself is much smaller than the Big Three, and the graves are more modest and low-key, with very few of the grandiose mausolea so characteristic of Père Lachaise, Montmartre and Montparnasse.

Pop culture fact: the final wedding scene in 1963 gangster caper Les Tontons flingueurs was filmed in and around the church.

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